Planning your deckProperty linesFirst and foremost, carefully go over the plan for your property which details its official boundaries. If the information is not complete, hire a surveyor. Municipal by-laws Contact your municipality to find out the various by-laws, zoning ordinances and building codes that may apply to your project. Generally, the end of a deck must be at least six feet six inches from your property line. Among other considerations, a deck must not restrict access to water supply, sewage line, power, gas or telephone services. Some municipalities have very strict regulations that may limit the overall size of your deck and the materials used in building this type of addition. A building permit is often required. Use, location and size The size of your deck will greatly influence your comfort level. Your plan should allow an average space of four feet by five feet (20 sq. ft. or 6.1 sq. m.) per person. For example, if your family includes two adults and three children, plan a deck of at least 100 to 120 square feet (31 to 37 sq. m.). If you enjoy having company during the summer months, take into consideration the number of people you usually invite. The orientation of your deck is also important. Plan and position your deck in relation to the sun's trajectory (during the summer) and take into account the location of trees, buildings, etc. You may be able to avoid prevailing winds by locating your deck where the house will provide some protection. Be careful not to place your deck under a wire where birds usually perch, a gum-dripping spruce tree or under a nut-bearing tree to avoid the rodents that they attract, etc. Finally, consider privacy, both for you and your guests and for your neighbours. At the planning stage, you should also consider the rooms through which you will access your deck, the size of your lot, the type of soil and municipal by-laws (size, foundation, materials, etc.). Choosing a model The model you choose should meet your needs for security, privacy, recreation, etc. Selecting materials The decking structure is usually made with pressure-treated wood which is by far the most versatile and popular material. Pressure-treated wood is used just like natural wood. For added durability, you should coat any cut or notch made in the wood with green preservative. Several alternatives to treated wood are available in our stores. Non-treated wood The most popular is without a doubt west red cedar. Eventhought it is more expensive to buy, its beauty and quality are unbeatable. Cedar's natural chemical composition makes it rot-proof, and will not need to be treated with chemicals. It is very resistant to harsh weather and rot. It can either be stained or left as is. Because of its deep texture, it is best to use translucent stains so as not to cover up its rich grain. Pressure-treated wood Pressure-treated wood is easily recognizable by its green colour. The wood has been dried then pressure-treated for at least three hours with chromated copper arsenate (CCA)or other treatment that penetrates deep into the cells of the wood. To comply with the Canadian Standards Association (CSA), pressure-treated wood must contain a minimum of 6.4 kg of CCA per cubic metre. Once the wood has dried out after a couple of months, it will shrink a little bit. Because of this, when assembling your deck, keep in mind that the spaces between the boards will grow by 1 or 2 mm. When staining your deck, the goal is to protect the wood and increase its durability, while minimizing the run-off of the products used to protect the wood. Treated lumber needs 30 days of sun before protective chemicals ca be applied. You will have to ensure that overnight temperatures never drop below 12 degrees Celsius. Pressure-treated wood costs more than natural untreated wood. However, it is much more durable and is practically maintenance-free. Considering that untreated wood used outdoors must regularly be stained or painted and, on average, must to be replaced every seven years, pressure-treated wood is a wise and usually justified investment. Recycled plastic Recycled plastic is a material that is gaining popularity as a building material for decks. 2 x 6 in. boards made entirely of plastic can now be found on the market, as well as the joints, mouldings and fasteners required for different projects. These solid (11 600 lbs. (5 262 kg) per sq. ft.), not flammable and extremely durable boards are maintenance-free and easily cleaned with water. They are offered in white and grey. A plastic board costs a lot more than pressure-treated wood. It does not distort or warp, is decay-resistant and its colour will not fade. It is also termite-proof and will hold up well near salt water. It is as easy to use as wood. It is slip resistant and will remain cool to the touch, even in direct sunlight. Plastic usually carries a 20 year warranty against any manufacturing defect. Wood composite Made of wood fibre and plastic, the wood composite is perfect to create a beautiful living environment, maintenance-free. Beautiful and practical, it does not require painting or staining. Lightweight and easy to handle, it is as easy as working with wood but fare more durable. The wood composite does not warp, rot, splinter or crack. It can be use for deck boards, railings and fencing. Support material can be either pressure-treated wood, concrete or steel. Assembly material Using ceramic screws specially designed for treated wood will result in a stronger deck and is an excellent way to prevent corrosion. A year after building your deck, you should tighten the screws that will have become loose once the wood dried completely. In the case of cedar, you can purchase screws whose colour blends well with the colour of the wood. These screws are usually coated with an epoxy-based paint. in some cases, it is best to drill pilot holes in the wood before driving in the screws. Doing so will virtually eliminate the risk of cracking the wood and will result in a stronger construction. Tis little detail can often make all the difference! Types of foundations You have four options: Concrete piers with sills, concrete piers without sills, "Dek-Blocks®", or foundation piles or screws (no excavation required for the last two). What follows are some key things to consider at the crucial stage of choosing a type of foundation. What type of soil are you dealing with? Is it clayey, rocky, sandy? Will the deck be anchored to the house or set apart from it? What type of deck would you like to build? Are you prepared to do major excavation work? How much do you plan on spending on your project? Concrete pillars with footings are, without a doubt, the most stable type of foundation you can use. The advantage of sills is that they solidly stabilize the concrete piers that are attached to them. However, this technique is rarely used because of the extensive excavation work involved. A large area must be excavated in order to place the formwork below the frost line. This work requires the use of a mechanical digger. You could also use prefabricated circular bases that adjust to 8 in. (203 mm), 10 in. (254 mm) or 12 in. (305 mm) diameter pier tubes into which concrete is poured. These may be inserted into the holes without excavating the entire perimeter of the deck, but since the diameter of the hole to be dug must be at least 18 in. (457 mm), a mechanical digger would nonetheless be required. Concrete pillars without footings are the most common type of deck foundation. They also require digging below the frost line to insert the tube except that the hole diameter required being smaller, you can simply use a mechanical post hole digger. Some people pour the concrete directly into the hole without using sonotubes®, but that method is not recommended. Although this method is easier than the previous one, it offers less stability for the pillars. "Dek-Blocks ®" involve no pouring of concrete and only minimal digging. Perfect for people in a hurry! On the other hand, their stability is compromised by the frost and thaw cycles and, for that reason, they are not recommended for a deck that will be anchored to the house. Non-anchored decks will often require a few adjustments in the spring to straighten the structure. If the soil in your area is sandy, this type of foundation will be more appropriate. Screwable foundation posts require no excavation whatsoever. Under the best conditions, they are easily installed, but in a rocky or clayey soil, the operation will no doubt be very difficult and, at the least obstacle, the pile could warp or shift its angle or the bracket used in screwing in the pile could be damaged. Whatever its use, a deck adds to the value of your home and provides a focal point for enjoying the outdoors. *Thanks to Rona.ca for this useful information |